Queenstown


Queenstown

We arrived in Queenstown Friday, December 21st 2012 after a magnificent drive through The Crown Pass.  We checked into “The Queenstown Mews” a very nice two-bed timeshare just a short stroll from both the lake and the town.  We did some shopping, barbequed some sausages and got ready for our friends coming the next day.

We picked Peter and Stephanie up from the airport around 1:30 pm and went back to the condo, had some tea, got settled in and reunited after 33 years since last seeing each other.  After much catching up we had dinner in the condo and planned what to do the next day.

After a leisurely breakfast we took ourselves off to Arrowtown, a quaint little place nearby where we had tea/coffee and scones.  After wandering round the shops we made our way towards the local wineries for a tour or two.  On the way we were sidestepped to go and witness the Bungy-Jumping at the site of the worlds first-ever Bungy Jump in 1988 from the Wamarau Bridge over the Wamarau River.  It is not for the faint of heart but an absolutely,  beautiful location.  It is considered one the most exhilarating things to do in Queenstown which is known locally as the adventure capital of the world.  We decided not to partake!!!!!!  From here we found our way, first to the Gibbston Valley Winery & Cheesery, where we had a tour and then a platter for lunch, followed by a tasting at the Mt. Rosa Winery, also in the Gibbston Valley.  Jim was the designated driver.  Later that evening we had a barbeque, lamb and pork with salad and fresh bread and did some more catching up.

On Christmas Eve, another glorious day we walked down to the lake and did an easy hike for several hours.  We stopped at The Rees for coffee and mince pies and came back along the lakeside and through the Queenstown Gardens and Rose Gardens.  Here we encountered a new sport to us “Frisbee Golf”, it looked like a lot of fun.  We also visited with some folks at the Lawn Bowls Club and were invited to play by the President, but due to time constraints we had to decline!!!!!  That was our excuse and we are sticking to it.  We came back through town and picked up some bread at the bakery.  See the photo of the exquisite Gingerbread House.  That evening we had dinner at the restaurant at the top of the Gondola, which incidentally we could see from the condo.  We had a magnificent view and a really nice meal.  It was nice to be able to walk there and back after to help the digestion.

Christmas morning, Peter and Stephanie gave us a lovely Christmas tree ornament with all things Oz painted on it.  Kangaroo, Koala, The Sydney Opera House including Jim’s famous substation (just kidding) and the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  We had a lovely beakfast and then went on out.  We headed to the Shotover River where we could partake in the World Famous Shotover Jetboat ride.  UNFORTUNATELY, it was closed but as you can see they opened it up just for us!!!!  After this hair-raising experience we drove up to Coronet Peak and took in the vistas from the ski hill area and then took Peter and Stephanie on the magical drive through Crown Pass, culminating in the picturesque valley of the Pisa Conservation Area.  The valley and riverbed were alive with colour and we also saw a pair of oyster-catchers.  These comical looking birds beaks are bright orange and look as though they have a large, pointy carrot stuck on their faces.

Christmas evening we left early for dinner as Peter and Stephanie treated us to Christmas Dinner at Walter Peak High Country Farm.  We started by embarking on the T.S. Earnslaw steamship, celebrating its 100th year in operation.  We travelled down the lake on this intriguing vessel to the farm, had a wonderful Christmas Dinner, saw a sheep shearing exhibition, what everyone should do on Christmas day and then ROLLED back on to the Earnslaw, which I might add seemed a lot lower in the water on the return journey.  We then had a very welcome walk back to the condo.

On Boxing Day, it was up before the crack of dawn to catch the bus to Milford Sound via Te Anua and on to our boat.  We elected for a small vessel to get closer to the action.  That being said we got soaked by the falls.  All in a good days work.  We had a great bus driver Aleck, a Maori, who imparted all of the Maori Legends on our outward journey.  We were just worried that there would be a test on the way back but we managed to dodge it.  Boy do they have some long names and only 17 letters in their alphabet????

The 27thof December was our last full day together so we decided to drive along the other side of Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy.  This town was only accessible by boat until the 1960’s when the road was constructed.  It was a very interesting little town where they operate the jet boats for the Dart River.  It also has the shortest track of rail for the New Zealand Railway in the country as it came just from the lake to the station.  See Photo.  On our return journey we decided to stop for tea at The Paradise Gardens and Tearoom.  It was a private operation and seemed quite expensive but we decided to give it a whirl anyway.  What a wonderful experience.  The owners have worked on this property for twenty years.  They also operate it as a B&B.  There are five acres in various gardens and they have all been done by the couple that own it.  The property has beautiful vistas of Lake Wakatipu and the mountains beyond.  There are creeks running to and from the various ponds, fountains, the sculptures are all concrete and the hair strands made from gravel.  The statues portray various yoga positions.  There are enormous trees, veggies planted in various spots, hundreds of different plants, trees and shrubs and three thousand roses.  There are loads of wild birds, fish, ducks, Canada Geese, chickens, turkeys, peacocks, frogs and more.  One pair of ducks live at the top of the hill and walk all the way to the bottom to the pond, have a drink and walk all the way back up.  Everything is eco-friendly and the outside toilet is an amazing piece of engineering with plants growing inside the cubicle.  The ducks and geese forage between the plants and essentially do the weeding.  I must remember that one.

We returned back to Queenstown and went for a walk down to the beach at the lake.  Stephanie went shopping and Peter, Jim and Barbara went to Underwater World to view the clear waters of the lake and the creatures that live there.  There are large brown and rainbow trout, salmon and large eels.  You can also watch the black diving teals (ducks) dive down for the fish food that drops from above when a patron inserts a one-dollar coin.  The fish are mostly oblivious, as they have already eaten so much except for one very large and very ugly salmon who just floats there, opening his mouth as the pellets drop in.  These creatures are not in captivity but live freely in the lake, but heh if there is a free meal why not hang around.  The largest trout ever caught in Lake Wakatipu was caught at the other end of the lake near Glenorchy and weighed almost twenty-two pounds and was caught by a nine-year old boy.  We went back to the condo after having a final ice cream at Patagonias Chocolate Shop.  Exquisite but they don’t do low fat lettuce ones unfortunately.  More pounds!!!!

The last supper was a barbecue of ribs, salad, potato bake, and asparagus, preceded by cheese, pate, sundried tomatoes and crackers and followed by a fruit crisp and more ice cream!!!!

The next morning we had to vacate our little nest with our friends and had a final coffee in the Remarkables Shopping Complex and then sadly our friends were taken from us by Qantas across the sea not to be seen again for another few weeks when we can resume our gourmet naughtiness.  It was a truly amazing week of things we did and the ability to pick up where we left off as though the last thirty-three years were just a blink in time.

P.S.  The Remarkables Shopping Complex is not reflective of the stores or wares but that it is situated below The Remarkables Mountain Range.

Jim in Arrowtown - See Steph reflected in window

Wamarau Bridge - Wamarau River

Gibbston Winery & Cheesery - lunch

Mt. Rosa winery - driftwood sheep statue among the lavender

Barbecue at Queenstown Mews

Lake Wakatipu - Queenstown
Quenstown Lawn Bowls Club

Queenstown Gardens

The beach on Lake Wakatipu - Queenstown Gardens

Exquisite Gingerbread House - Queenstown Bakery

Jim, Barbara, Stephanie & Peter - at the top of the Gondola for Christmas Eve dinner

Scary Stuff - Christmas morning
Christmas Dinner at Walter Peak High Country Farm

Stephanie & Peter - Milford Sound

Milford Sound

Seal Rock - Milford Sound

Seal Rock - Milford Sound

Barbara & Jim - Milford Sound

Stirling Falls - Milford Sound

Milford Sound
Milford Sound
Pisa Conservation Area

Pisa Conservation Area
Pisa Conservation Area
Pisa Conservation Area
Glenorchy Station
Lake Wakatipu - Looking Towards Glenorchy


Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens
Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens

Paradise Gardens
Stay tuned for Invercargill…………………

South Island - Renwick, Greymouth & Fox Glacier


South Island – Renwick, Greymouth & Fox Glacier

We sailed across the Queen Charlotte Sound on the Aratere through spectacular Fjords.  We docked around 5:40 pm, picked up our late model rental car (2006!!!) and made our way to Renwick to the charming Olde Millhouse B&B.  Robert & Diane, our hosts greeted us on our arrival and showed us to our beautiful room and en-suite.  We spent two nights here being spoiled with very comfortable accommodation and wonderful continental breakfast including Diane’s home-made preserves and muesli.  Robert & Diane’s garden is a spectacular English cottage style garden along with dog Jasper and the aviary of lovebirds.  See garden photo.

Whilst at the Olde Millhouse we went to Kaikoura to go whale watching and saw a huge sperm whale that languished beside our boat for around 20 minutes before diving back to the depths.  We were also privileged to be joined by a group of Dusky Dolphins who entertained us for quite a while.  In fact we had to say goodbye to them not vice versa.  We also saw several types of Albatross and also Giant Petrels.  (Seabirds for anyone not into birdlife)

On our return journey we stopped along the coast where we encountered a fur seal colony.  How captivating to see these amazing creatures in their natural environment totally unaware of being watched.  See photo.

On Wednesday morning we bade our hosts farewell and made our way to Greymouth via Nelson and Westport.  On arriving in Nelson we were quite amazed to find this seaside town just bursting with people finishing their Christmas Shopping.  It was literally bursting at the seams, with nowhere to park.  Apparently it has become a refuge for displaced persons after the earthquake in Christchurch.  We drove around the town just to get a look-see and continued our journey westwards.  We stopped in a quaint little village for coffee at a charming tearoom.  The village and the tearoom were typically English and we thoroughly enjoyed our stopover.  Continuing onwards in the pouring rain we suddenly came to a screaming halt.  There had been a huge rock-slide, which was blocking the whole road.  Higher up was a very large boulder that was just hanging by a thread.  They were using a helicopter to water bomb the boulder as we sat waiting for about three quarters of an hour until the helicopter needed to refuel.  The big excavator standing by, cleared the big pile of rocks that had come down and we were able to proceed very carefully!!!!!!  Once again, on our way, we drove to Westport a pretty non-descript coastal town and forward on to Greymouth.  We stopped several times on our way to photograph the angry Tasman Sea.  The coastline was spectacular yet daunting.  We arrived in Greymouth and stayed in a very nice Motel called The Alpine Rose.  Stacey the daughter-in-law, standing in for her in-laws, was very hospitable and helpful.  After our soggy drive the day before, Wednesday proved to be a glorious day, blue sky and sunshine.  We drove back up the coast to see the famous Pancake rocks and blowholes that we missed the day before due to the inclement weather.  The rocks are an absolutely amazing phenomena and look like thousands of mud pancakes piled one on top of the other.  We also went to the little village of Moana at the top end of Lake Brunner.

We left Greymouth Thursday morning to drive to Fox Glacier and stopped first at Hokitika, a nice little coast town famous for its jade. Next stop was Hokitika Gorge which is an amazing turquoise colour, traversed by a swing bridge.  Totally remote and incredibly beautiful.  The weather en-route was perfect and we arrived at the White Fox B&B and were greeted by Garry, Megan and Isla.  Jayne arrived shortly afterwards and we had a cup of tea.  They welcomed us to their home and made us very comfortable.  After giving us some local information we drove out to Lake Matheson, known as Reflections Lake where we did a short hike culminating in a magnificent view of both Mt. Tasman and Mt. Cook.  From there we drove to another viewpoint and had a magnificent view of The Fox Glacier.
Queen Charlotte Sound - on the Ferry
Queen Charlotte Sound - on the Ferry
Olde Millhouse B&B
On the Way to Kaikoura
Kaikoura - Sperm Whale


Ohau Point Seal Colony


Rock Slide between Nelson & Westport


The Coast between Westport & Greymouth


The Coast between Westport & Greymouth
The Coast between Westport & Greymouth


Greymouth


Pancake Rocks - Punakaiki
Blowhole at Punakaiki


Beach at Hokitika


Jim at Hokitika
Hokitika Town Clock


Hokitika Gorge & Swing Bridge


Hokitika Gorge & Swing Bridge
Barbara at Hokitika Gorge on the Swing Bridge


Mt. Tasman & Mt. Cook from Lake Matheson
Fox Glacier



Jim & Barbara at Viewpoint for Fox Glacier
Wild Billy Falls between Fox Glacier & Queenstown


Lake Wanaka


Barbara in the Lupins - Crown Pass


Lupins - Crown Pass


Looking down on Queenstown from Crown Pass

After a lovely breakfast on Friday morning we bade our goodbyes to the White Fox and started our drive towards Queenstown.  After the perfect day on Thursday we left in torrential rain.  Our plan to visit and walk on Fox Glacier proved to be impossible.  We drove on through thick mountain clouds and heavy rain for quite some time.   As we travelled, the rain lessened and we stopped at Wild Billy Gorge to photograph these roaring waterfalls.  Shortly after crossing another range and driving alongside Lake Wanaka the rain stopped and the sun came out.  From Wanaka to Queenstown we took the road through Crown Pass.  It started at a low altitude with wild lupins blooming along the creeks and roadside creating a myriad of colour and ascending to the highest paved road in New Zealand, The Crown Pass at a 1,046 metres above sea level.  At the top we were treated to magnificent views of Arrowtown and Queenstown……………………